Much as I had a brilliant time in Khartoum, it was good to get back to El Obeid. People were so happy to see me back, even the man I just say hello to every time I walk past his house on my way the Extra Institute was delighted to see me!
Being in Khartoum for "Independence Day", we thought we might see some of the celebrations, however in true Sudanese style celebrations began after the actual day itself! Driving to work on my first day back in El Obeid, we passed a military mounted procession gathering. Lines of men on horseback, looking very smart in their traditional "Jalabias" bright white in the morning sunshine.
Later that day I went to the main campus of the University to meet Hassan as Mohammed had told him I had returned from Khartoum "bankrupt"! They were staging a celebration to mark the Independence of Sudan from Britain in 1956. A group of students sang a number of traditional Sudanese songs, to which there was much dancing and cheering from the crowd of Staff and Students that had assembled to watch the proceedings. As usual I had found myself in prime position in the front row. Amongst the singing, speeches and poetry there was a lively drama, which was very entertaining, despite not understanding the dialogue! The portrayal of an English Gentleman Soldier was hilarious, complete with the clipped upper class accent. Little did I know at the time that I was yet to enjoy this celebration a further two times - at Khawr Teggat on the Sunday and again at the Faculty of Education on the following Tuesday! Although each subsequent occasion had it's surprises - at Khawr Teggat, Hassan joined the students on stage and sang with them, which was great to see! And at the faculty of Education Mrs Helen was led up in front of the stage to dance in front of the crowd - to much cheering and clapping! If only they knew - in England several units of alcohol would had to have been consumed for me to make a public spectacle of myself like that! It was just lovely to share in the joy and celebration with my colleagues and students. One of whom gave me the best accolade "You are the best English/Sudanese dancer we have seen!"That evening I met my friend at the centre campus for coffee. We could hear the sound of drums in the distance so we went off to investigate. There was a group of boys and a group of girls performing a dance around the basketball court. One of my students was nearby, and told us that it was a tribal celebration, welcoming new students to the university. The dance was very similar to the one I'd seen performed at the French Institute before Christmas - lots of fast footwork, as my friend Ness described it - a bit like shuffle! This time I did have my camera but the battery was dead! Seemingly I am not destined to record this for future reference! Though it was wonderful to be amongst the crowd, cheering and clapping, enjoying the spectacle.
On the Friday of my first week back in El Obeid, I went to a "circumcision celebration" for two adorable little boys - who's feet you can see in the picture! Like all family gatherings and celebrations, the ladies and men were separate for the occasion, and of course food was involved too! After a sumptuous breakfast, the boys were prepared for their celebration. Beautifully dressed in their jallabias, with their feet hennaed, they then had red ribbons tied round their heads, with a gold medallion at the front and sticks around the sides which gave them the appearance of crowns. Then an orange paste was applied to firstly their heads and then to everyone else's (including me!) The little boys obliged by punching the air in celebration to the delight of everyone there. There was lots of singing and trilling and at last - I have learned how to do it! So I can now trill with the best of them at all future celebrations! I just wish learning Arabic was that simple!
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