22 Oct 2011

Reality sinks in!

So here I am finally in the town that will be my home for the next 9 months.  I am glad to be out of Khartoum.  Much as I enjoyed my time there I'm not really a city kind of girl, and for me it's a little too like London in so much as it's busy, crowded and dirty.  From the little I've seen of El Obeid already it feels more like home.  The  Guest House is a fair way out of town and even further from the University Campus at Khawr Teggat where I am to be working most of the time.  Although to my Sudanese hosts this is not a problem; as they'll happily run me around; for a fiercely independent, single, Englishwoman it feels uncomfortably dependent.

The staff at the University are so warm  and friendly, within a few days I feel that I have known them for ages.  Many of them speak very good English and they are all so forgiving of my poor Arabic.  I only have four timetabled lectures a week to start with, which are all a the beginning of the week.  The rest of my time is spent drinking and eating breakfast with the students whilst chatting.  I haven't been at the University very long before a group of recent graduates come and seek me out to take me for a coffee and chat.  This all feels far too enjoyable to be considered work!

My first lectures are dreadful! Despite both my teaching background and TEFL training I don't really know quite where to start.  Text books, even old ones are a luxury item here, if the students are really lucky they might have a photocopy of an out of date edition of a book.  Interactive whiteboard??  You have got to be joking!  I thought I'd seen the last of the blackboards at my previous school!  Technology here is a lecture theatre with a working microphone!  However none of these difficulties faze the staff or the students, who are always cheerful and upbeat.  The difference in ability between some of the students is so vast.  Many of them, especially the girls are so quiet and shy they won't say a word so it's impossible to tell whether they understand what is going on or not!  However, the students are so respectful and kind they not only resist the temptation to eat me alive but thank me for my excellent lecture!  I promise to do better next week.

Although I am thoroughly enjoying my work, I missing my old roomies dreadfully and living on my own is starting to make me feel quite homesick.  Just under two weeks after my arrival in El Obeid I move to an apartment in the town centre.  It is basically one small room with a tiny kitchen area and a bathroom.  There is no air conditioning and the taps I soon find out are mostly for decorative effect!  I resolve that these are minor issues as being in the town centre will be much better for my state of mind, independence and my Arabic.
 My New Bachelorette Apartment!

With the English Society at University

However, after a couple of days without running water and too much time spent on my own in my new abode, my resolve starts to crack a little.  The low point comes when there is a problem at home, which turns out to be a minor issue, but at it's height had me thinking I might have to return to the UK.  This became a turning point, for as I considered the possibility of having to leave Sudan prematurely, I was filled with sadness.  Much as I miss my family and friends in the UK, how could I possibly leave my new friends, colleagues and students already?  I may have only been here a short time but as I walk around the University students call after me "Mrs Helen!" and my colleagues and I spend many hours engaged in light hearted banter over cups of tea.   The people of Sudan are so wonderful, the pace of life so relaxed - swearing and stress have already become things of my past!  Life may be hard here and people don't have much, but what they have they are more than happy to share, they have a warmth I have never encountered before.  I would hate for these lovely people to think that I am not happy in their country.

Still as they say "things often look better in the morning."  As day breaks I find that everything is fine back in the UK, and Al Hamdu lilla - I have running water this morning!  I think this is a sign - My work here has only just begun!  I'm feeling brighter already!

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